Blog 12: Ronda y Semana Santa

Blog 12: Ronda y Semana Santa

            Not only does Spain have siestas everyday but they also have a weeklong holiday called Semana Santa followed by another weeklong holiday called Feria just two weeks later! After all this pampering I don’t know how I’ll adjust back to my normal life. So I am now enjoying my time off during Semana Santa sipping some green tea and relaxing before my five-day trip to Morocco. This is my last blog to about Spain for the next three weeks. I think to do Morocco the justice it deserves I will write two in depth blogs about my experience there. Then a week after I’m spending a weekend in Portugal so I’ll have a blog about that too. So a short adios (bye) to Spain after this blog!

            Last Friday I awoke to the sound of falling rain. I wasn’t all that happy about the 100 percent chance of rain weather report because today we were going on a day trip to Ronda. Even though I would have rather stayed in my heated room, I tugged on my jacket a grabbed broken paraguas (umbrella). Despite rain, the drive to Ronda was absolutely gorgeous. There were lush green hills dotted with wildflowers everywhere with lakes cupped between them. I wish I could’ve taken a picture of it. Once in Ronda we saw one of the most naturally gorgeous sights I’ve seen since traveling in Spain. There’s a gorge the height of two football fields and the locals built a bridge above the gorge in order to connect both sides of their city. One of our professors said that one of her previous student fell off this gorge and miraculously survived making him famous in this town. Looking down, I couldn’t fathom how living through a terrifying fall like that is humanly possible. But I wasn’t about to prove my professor wrong by giving it a try myself (gulp)! And the rain became a beautiful blessing because a cascada (waterfall) was running in between the gorge. Seeing a waterfall is a rare occasion in Ronda so muchas gracias to the lluvia (rain)!

            After Ronda, Semana Santa finally began. Semana Santa is a religious holiday that is celebrated for a week in Catholic Spain. And I am very lucky because maybe the best place to experience Semana Santa in Spain is Sevilla because the people here go all out during this holiday. Passions run high and hundreds of people flood the calles (streets) to watch the processions. I’ve watched several processions and it was simply amazing. For an outsider the white túnica (tunic) and capirote (hood) that completely covers that face and has slits for only the eyes looks all a lot like the KKK. But this traditional attire predates the KKK (who sadly have made a horrible symbol out of this traditionally religious garb). Each brotherhood from the church walks in this dress holding a staff sized velas (candle). Others hold silver staffs and crests and some carry crosses barefoot show their penitence. In the cover of darkness the procession becomes a line of glowing candles that fill the air with the smell of wax. But the most impressive sights are the pasos (floats) carried throughout the streets.  It takes sixty men to carrying these. Some are golden with beautifully crafted figures playing out the scene of the Passion while others are of the Vigin Mary protected by a palio (canopy) and surrounded by dozens of candles and white flowers. Sweet incense is expelled as she passes and the crowded hushes as she makes her way through the streets. The tears streaking down her face are match by some people in the crowd as the Virgin Mary literally sways away, a beacon of light in the darkness. Even if you’re not religious, it’s impossible to not be stunned by the beautiful pasos (floats) and the fervent love people have for their faith.

Blog 11: Capea (Amateur Bullfight)

Blog 11: Capea (Amateur Bullfight)

            I am looking down at the stomach-churning drop from the top of the sheer faced cliff of the pueblo (town) Arcos de la Frontera. The small, white village is perched on top looking like it popped right out of the pages of a storybook. Ahead of me, flock of black birds battle against the wind and we are so far up that I can only see their backs. I watch as they press on, making their way across the rolling hills of Spanish wine country. Hopefully I have given you a little taste of the picturesque atmosphere of Arcos de la Frontera. While the rest of my classmates were traveling abroad or to far away Spanish cities, my roommate and I took a relaxing day trip to one of the “white villages” of Spain. To be honest, there are not many sights to see in Arcos de la Frontera but the atmosphere and view from the top and bottom of the cliff are spectacular! We also were very fortunate to meet a local guy named Alejandro (I swear there are so many Alejandro’s here) who was nice enough to show us around and drive us to a look out that we couldn’t otherwise have gotten to without a car. We ended the day off relaxing with a glass of “tinto” (they don’t call red wine “vino rojo) before returning to Sevilla.

            Capea was pretty much the opposite of the relaxing day at Arcos de la Frontera. My roommate’s intercambio invited her to go to this event where people talk story, eat good food, drink, and dance. We invited one of our friends to come along too. It took place in this rustic farm on the outskirts of Sevilla. This might sound weird but it was nice to be out of the city and with the air smelling of fresh grass and animals. We also had awesome gamaba (shrimp) paella as well. This was the first time I saw it being cooked in a huge, steaming pan. An elderly man was cooking it and this was apparently his 1000th something time cooking paella like this. Bluff or not, the smell of paella being cooked like that is mouth salivating.

            But the main event is when people can have a go at being a “matador.” For those of you that don’t know, in Spain a strong cultural tradition is corrida de toros (bullfighting). Apparently it’s banned in certain parts of Spain and Andalucia is one of the few places left in Spain where bull fighting is still practiced. Personally I don’t know if I could enjoy watching a traditional bull fight because the bull almost always dies in the end. But I also understand that it is an engrained part of Spanish culture. In Capea, the bull is only a calf (because the people at the event are not professional matadors) and the bull is not killed. Well, I was all ready to be valiente (brave) and get into that ruedo (bullring) and give it a try, but maybe from the pictures you will see why I chickened out. Firstly, the bull was not that small. I can’t imagine how scary it must be looking straight into the face of a full-grown bull. Secondly, I watched as even some of the men there didn’t even go into the ring and everybody (all thirty or-so Spainards) watched intensely and made lots of noise as someone made an attempt. And then some brave soul would go in and stamp around or sweep the bright pink and yellow cape across the floor before getting run over and head butted by the bull. I can’t really blame the bull though. If I had a bunch of people running around, yelling at me I’d be pissed off too! But it was very exciting to watch. I really really regret not being brave and just trying. If there’s one thing I’ve learned being here it’s to take every unique opportunity that comes your way because you might never get the chance to experience it again.

Blog 10: Dinero, Dinero, Dinero (Money, Money, Money)

Blog 10: Dinero, Dinero, Dinero (Money, Money, Money)

Panoramic view of Córdoba

Arcos de la Frontera

            In the past week I’ve gone to two more Andalucian cities. First I went to charming Córdoba and then peaceful Arcos de la Frontera. I will talk about my trip to Arcos de la Frontera next time but these pictures are like a preview. Doesn’t the town and dramatic cliff look like a scene from a movie? I went to Córdoba as another college trip. There we saw the Mezquita, a beautiful mosque turned church that had endless rows of rusty red arched columns.  Walking in there is like stepping back in time. The lights are dimmed and if you have a good imagination you can almost hear the low hum of the Imam (Islamic priest) and the swishing their ropes. The ocean of graceful arcs above seems to whisper the secrets of the past. It was yet another beautiful Islamic treasure. But one of the most fascinating things in Córdoba, for me anyways, is that it has one of the three last Jewish synagogues in Spain. . It was so small and simple it was easy to forget that it is now a reminder of a dark past. During the Spanish Inquisition, many Jewish people fled Spain. Many people were burned on stakes or tortured and synagogues everywhere were destroyed. The fact that this synagogue in Córdoba survived because it was so well hidden is remarkable to me.  The humble white washed walls of the synagogues insides are so starkly different from the grand, golden altars in the cathedral of Spain. Yet I found this little synagogue to be just as profound.

            Next topic. The thought has probably crossed your mind, “how in the world is Terah paying for all this!” That’s a very good question. Spending a semester traveling around Europe might not seem all that possible for us college students sitting in our cramped dorm rooms religiously eating microwaved cup of noodles and pop tarts. I’m not going to lie, studying abroad (or going on your dream trip to Europe) can be cara (expensive) but if your smart about budgeting you can have the time of your life and not break tu cartera ( your wallet). I have three simple suggestions. One, unless you have the means it will be impossible to go out every night. I go out when I feel 100 percent in the mood for it or when my friends are planning to do something different. For example, I really wanted to go to my intercambio’s barbeque and they asked everyone coming to pitch in money for the bebidas (drinks) and comida (food). Since I hadn’t gone out the night before, I didn’t feel bad spending the money. And it was well worth being able to practice Spanish for seven hours! Two, remember to convert euros to dollars in your head. Currently one euro is about one dollar and 30 cents so cuidado (careful)! That cheap twenty euro bolsa (bag) is actually about 27 dollars. Three have a game plan. I have a scholarship that helps pay for this study abroad and I’m planning to work again once I get back to Hawaii. But all this icky money-talk aside, for me, the life experience you get from living abroad is priceless. You will come back as a more confident, worldly person if you truly immerse yourself in a new culture and lifestyle. 

Blog 9: Cantando en Español (Singing in Spanish)

Blog 9: Cantando en Español (Singing in Spanish)

View of Sevilla from 'Las Setas'

            Me, a mic, Spanish lyrics, and about three-dozen staring eyes. Sound like a recipe for disaster? In my case, probably, but lets see. Some people are terrified at the thought of stepping foot into a karaoke bar. And the only way you’ll get them to sing is if they’ve had a few drinks. I’m usually not one of those people, so when my intercambios invited me to go to a karaoke bar with them I excitedly said yes. But then I remembered I was in Spain….so that means songs are in Spanish. Mierda. (shit….sorry I’m teaching Spanish swear words). Now I was the one who needed a few drinks. Before I go on, I should explain who are these mysterious “intercambios.” If you want to improve your Spanish you can sign up for an intercambio who is a local Sevillano whom you can practice your Spanish with and in return help them with English. If your studying abroad in a country where English is not the native language, I really really recommend you find an intercambio. Not only do you improve your language skills but you could also meet a new amigo (bet you haven’t heard this word before!). I happen to have two intercambios a hermana (sister) and hermano (brother) and it has been such a great experience getting to know and talk with them. Ok, back to karaoke. I was feeling a little anxious a few hours before we met up. I brought some friends with me to make things more relaxed and fun. When we arrived at the karaoke bar, we entered a big room flashing with fluorescent green and yellow lights. A movie size screen towered over us. And in the middle, glaring at me, was the mic. But in the end I ended up having an awesome time! I found some classic English songs to chose from (guess the Spanish love ‘We will Rock You’ as much as we do!). And I even gave singing in Spanish a shot. La Macarena anyone? Muchas gracias (thank you very much) to my intercambios for inviting me and making my friends and I feel so comfortable!

Did I mention Sevillanos love flamenco?

            This seems like a good time to talk about la gente (the people) of Sevilla. Everyday I’m learning more and more about the Sevillanos, but I’ve only been here for about a month and a half so I definitely don’t know the people here well. For me it’s muy interesante (very interesting) to observe cultural differences. And I’ve noticed a few differences between Sevillanos and Americans. For example saying ‘sorry’, ‘please’, and ‘thank you’ isn’t as used as much as back home. Here you only say these if you truly mean it. Also, people here are much more blunt about their feelings. Remember my host dad telling me about how red my nose looked when I was sick? It’s not being rude it’s just a part of their culture. Finally true to their reputation in romance, don’t be surprised if guys call you “guapa” (beautiful) on a daily basis. And at some point you’ll definitely see a boyfriend and girlfriend not so shy in showing everyone how in love they are. But the thing I love most about the Sevillanos is how close-knit they are. Families eat and talk together. People look out for the niños (children) even in they’re not even their own. I can feel genuine love between families, friends, and even strangers. Back at home I’d call it true ‘aloha spirit.’ Maybe the people here aren’t so different from the people back home after all. 

Also discovered a cool skate park in Sevilla this weekend

Blog 8: ¡Me encanta Granada! (I love Granada!)

Blog 8: ¡Me encanta Granada! (I love Granada!)

            Imagine sitting and watching the sun slowly sink after days end. Stretching out before you is a palace, its façade both elegant and austere. And cradling it are snowcapped mountains with colors of pink and orange cascading down its sides.  It’s a view so beautiful and breathtaking you wonder if you are staring at a painting. What I have described is the Alhambra palace in Granada and the Sierra Nevada Mountains lying at its doorstep.

            Mi escuela (my school) plans fieldtrips outside of Sevilla so this past weekend we spent most of Friday and Saturday in la ciudad (the city) of Granada. Granada is such a cool place to visit because it was the last Muslim stronghold in Spain before the Christians retook Spain in 1492. But even though most Muslims were expelled from Granada, those who were willing to convert to Christianity were allowed to stay. Because of this, there is still a lot of Islamic influence in Granada. Granada’s fame lies in it’s Islamic fortress, turned palace called the Alhambra.  It was built in the 9^th century! It was like a bigger, more extensive Alcazar. I find it hard to imagine that there was a time when Sultans used to walk through its passageways living in luxury with their many wives and concubines. It’s also hard to believe that it was here that Queen Isabella gave Columbus support to sail to the New World.  Later we also went to the Cathedral in Granada where Queen Isabella and King Fernando are buried. An impressive history this city does not lack. But don’t expect the same grandiose, luxurious frills that some palaces boast like Versailles. The Alhambra is first and foremost a Moorish palace (mix of Islamic and Christian architecture) so it has a more simplistic beauty. I think that the Alhambra can most be appreciated through pictures so I’ll add lots for you guys. It was one of the most enchanting places I’ve been. ¡Muy bonita! (Very pretty)

            Ok I’ve bored you enough with history! Granada’s a little bit of a hippy city with lots of cute plazas where a good chance you can enjoy your tapas and wine listening to music of street players. There’s also a section of Granada calle (street) Calderería where there is a strong Arabic influence. The street is a burst of color and life. The faint smell of incense and sweet teas fill the air. And what better place to try authentic Arabic food! Some friends and I had an awesome lunch there. My roommate and I shared lamb with plumbs and vegetable rice. There’s not much seasoning in the food but it tasted so healthy and fresh. My roommate and I also tried Arabic tea. It was the best tea I’ve ever had! It had hot sweet milk in it and we drank it in the cutest little café. After we took a walk up into the windy, maze-like streets of the barrio (neighborhood) Albayzín. The neighborhood is on a hill and when we found our way to the top that’s were we saw the view of the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada Mountains at sunset. What a magical view in a magical city!

QueenIsabella and King Ferdinand are buried here!

Blog 7: ¡La Comida Española! (Spanish Food!)

Blog 7: ¡La Comida Española! ( Spanish Food!)

            It’s Valentine’s Day back in the States, but according to my host sister and intercambio (I’ll explain who she is soon) it’s not a big deal here in Spain. But in celebration of Valentine’s Day, I’m dedicating this blog to my friends and family back at home. Love and miss you all!

            Recently, we visited an ancient Roman ruin called Itálica on the outskirts of Sevilla. Apparently it dates back to about 200 BC! We walked through the amphitheater where gladiators would fight each other in Olympic-like games. In the middle of the arena there was an area that was carved out where they would keep animals. Blood (sangre) would seep down the floorboards down to where the starved animals were kept in order to make them even more vicious. Even more disturbing is that sometimes when a gladiator was killed people in the crowd would rush down to drink his blood because they thought it was a cure for epilepsy. !Qué asco! (How gross!) It was strange walking around a place where so much blood was spilled. Itálica is so peaceful now compared to it’s former self.

            The next day, I went to Carnaval de Cádiz. It’s is basically a big, crazy fiesta that takes place in the costal town of Cádiz. It’s kind of like Halloween because people dress up. Muy loco (very crazy) but muy divertido (but very fun). There were so many people gathered in the square and when we left to take the bus back to Sevilla around 4:30 in the morning there were still people there! I’ll be forever in awe of how late Spaniard's party.

I feel like I haven’t sufficiently talked about the food, people, culture, and my classes yet. I’ll talk about food first since my friends were just talking about this during our after-school coffee break. The food here is muy delicioso (very delicious)! I won’t say it’s mo beta den Hawaii cuz we get some good grinds (I won’t say it’s better than Hawaii because we have good food- threw in some pidgin haha!). Poke, loco moco, shoyu chicken, lomi lomi salmon, oh so ono! But I have to admit all the Spanish food I’ve had here is amazing. They have fresh bread (pan) with almost every meal and they dip it in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The salads they make here are simply dressed with salt, olive oil, and vinegar. My family sometimes puts these salty Spanish olives, tuna, carrots, and corn in the salad (richens the salad and is one of my personal favorites).  Ham (jamón) is also very popular here. The literally have legs of it hanging and dripping in store windows. A typical Spanish dessert is fruit or yogurt, much healthier than American treats. Other favorites of mine are tortilla epañola (Spanish omelet with potato and onion), lentil soup, fresh prawns and mollusks, and of course paella. The last is making me salivate right now. I’ll end off by saying those who have never tried traditional Spanish paella have not lived...that’s how good it is!

Our Carnaval costumes were kind of random...we were on a budget!

            

Blog 6: El Fin de Semana Pasado (Last Weekend)

El Fin de Semana Pasado (Last Weekend)

         Some of you might know this feeling. You’ve embarked on an adventure that took weeks worth of planning, but it’s only a few days after (or in my case three weeks) until it finally hits you. It finally sinks in that you are thousands of miles away from home and the beach is about an hour and a half away by bus (this is coming from a girl who lives in the tsunami zone back at home). Fortunately I haven’t gotten too homesick yet, but just word of advice to those studying abroad.  Homesickness is a completely normal feeling, but don’t let it take over your experience. Make lot of friends, sign up for intercambio (a program where you meet a local and practice speaking Spanish with them), volunteer, and make travel plans. I’ve done all the above! Now I finally feel as if my five-month journey has begun.

 This weekend was all about exploring. I went with a bunch of friends from my college to the nearby town of Carmona. This is the first time I’ve spent time outside of Sevilla and Carmona is only about a 5 euro round trip bus ride away. Unlike the city of Sevilla, Carmona is a small town situated on a hillside. All the houses were whitewashed with yellow-gold trimmings. I loved just roaming through the winding cobblestone streets and admiring the antiquated feel of the town. Since the town used to be occupied by the Romans it had several ancient Roman ruins. But for me the most breathtaking views in Carmona were the green fields and farmlands that encompassed the town.  I felt more at home seeing green open space because it reminded me of home, although in Maui I’d be looking at acres of sugar cane fields. Carmona was the perfect (and economical) weekend getaway.
Fútbol (soccer in the states) is a big deal here in Spain. My host brother always talks about soccer with my roommate and I during siesta. He got us 10 euro tickets, which is really cheap for a game. He and his friend took us to the stadium from our house, and to be honest I might have enjoyed the ride there almost as much as the game itself. It might seem a little silly but it’s because they took us on their motorcycles. I’ve been on a moped before and it really does give you a bit of a rush. But riding in the twilight on a motorcycle in Spain with a Spanish guy kind of takes the cake. At the fútbol game there were a lot so many people (the majority were guys (hombres)). I’m pretty sure the stadium is bigger than Aloha Stadium and it was almost packed. The game was heated because it was Betis vs Sevilla (two very competitive rivals). The energy from the fans made it a neat atmosphere to be a part of. Everyone wore the colors of their team and it reminded me a lot of football games back at home. And the players were so swift and agile so I had my eyes glued to the field almost the entire time. Luckily Sevilla won so my host brother and his friend were in a good mood when they took us home. ¡Fue muy divertido! (It was very fun!) What a whirlwind weekend!